Wednesday

Driving Tour of St. Petersburg - July 21

Wow! This city is spectacular. It’s very clean and the architecture is quite beautiful. Very elegant, much built in 1800’s. The city was founded 1703. Much Baroque (early, middle and late), as well as Classical and Empire styles. There are many parks and squares with cathedrals (4) and government buildings.

The food here is pretty standard fare. You can always find something on the menu whether it’s a Caesar salad or a piece of chicken. Or if you are adventurous you can go for a traditional borsch! Last night, we had Chicken Kiev and Beef Stroganoff, both delicious. I have only seen one McDonald’s, and no Starbucks. People were friendly and eager to please, although I would not characterize their temperament as happy-go-lucky. I would say they are cautious.

This morning we went into St Nicholas Cathedral, which is Russian Orthodox. Very ornate with many icons, mostly of Virgin Mary and Son. There were no pews (no sitting during service), and powder blue exterior. Very quiet both inside and outside.

The Opera and Ballet House was built in 1858, and has a powder green exterior, with lots of columns and ornate sculptural elements right off a magnificent square.

Driving around, we noticed canals very similar to those in Venice (St Petersburg is sometimes called the Northern Venice) which are punctuated by many interesting bridges, each an architectural statement. There are two rivers; the Neva and the Moika, which wind all through the City. On either side of the Neva in the center of town are amazing older buildings e.g., the Peter and Paul Fortress which is the final resting place for the entire Romanov Dynasty, including Peter the Great, up through Czar Nicholas the Second and his murdered family.



Then, we went to the unique Church of Christ, (also known as the Church of the Spilled Blood) which has nine gold and multi colored cupolas. There are many mosaics on the exterior, together with small artistic flags representing various regions of old Russia.

Onto Michael Opera and Ballet House (2nd largest in the City) which is next to Michael's Palace (now the Russian Museum), an astonishingly beautiful classical building now housing solely Russian artists of all types. And, of course shopping off this square which I was assured by our tour guide is only for Russians and we were an exception!!!

Then to the Kazan Cathedral (1801) which looks like it would fit in St Peter's square in Rome. Classic structure, located on Nevsky Prospect - the main street of the City (4.5 km long). Alexander Nevsky was a famous Russian prince.



Next was the Hermitage, which is actually five separate but adjacent buildings and houses with over 3 million pieces of art. Clearly one of the greatest collections anywhere… the largest in Russia and one of the 4 largest in the world. The main building (which was originally the winter palace of Peter the Great) is classic architecture, with light powder green exterior, white pillars and gilded artwork above the windows, all very tastefully done. The interior of the main building is classical style, long hallways, somewhat narrow and colonnaded, and it is said, as important as the artwork itself.

Upstairs on first floor is a large exhibition of Picassos, then the gallery of 1812 commemorating 112 generals from the Napoleonic Wars. Then we moved onto the Throne Room which is 800 sq meters with matching inlaid floors and gilded ceilings, not to mention huge ornate gilded chandeliers.

Now the next contiguous building which is known as the Small Hermitage – was built by Catherine the Great to house her art collection. It has incredible marble (white Carrera) floors with mosaics and outdoor gardens, all overlooking a dark blue Neva River and bridges, through floor to ceiling windows on sunny day.

Then we went to the Old Hermitage (3rd Building) with medieval art including frescoes, oil paintings (fra filippo lippi), icons and artwork by Giovanni Della Robbia (I thought Della Robbia’s were an art form!) And renaissance art including 2 Botticelli’s, 2 by Da Vinci (Madonna with Child and Madonna Lita), 8 Titians (including The Repentant Mary Magdalene and St Sebastian).

After that, it was on to the 4th building known as the Hermitage Theatre, which is in the style of an ancient Greek amphitheatre and now used for performances.

Then on to the so called “New Hermitage” (built around 1850 to 1870) with an area called Raphael's Loggias, which is basically a long hallway with incredibly beautiful frescoes and canvasses on the walls. Artwork by Russian masters (not Raphael) depicting Greek mythology and images from the Bible.

Then to the Hall of Raphael with 2 paintings by Raphael and a sculpture by Michelangelo ("The Crouching Boy"), the only one in Russia.

Next, we went to the Small Skylight Room (great light) with large portraits including one by Caravaggio and Tintoretto, and continued on to the Large Skylight Room (more light) with more examples of Baroque art.


Then it was to Hall of Spanish Art, which housed 2 by Velasquez and 3 by El Greco. Afterwards, it was to the Hall of Rembrandt, which had 24 paintings and numerous sketches. My favorite was The Return of The Prodigal Son, an unforgettable work of art. Next room was The Tent Hall with other Dutch masters like Ter Borch and Steen.

Then to the Impressionist area; Renoirs, Cezannes, Monet, Pissarro, Degas, Toulouse Latrec, Van Gogh, Gaugin, Matisse (over 150 in all!)

Next was the Malachite Room which has beautiful Malachite columns and a fireplace, with ornate gold on the doors and ceiling. And lastly, we came upon the Concert Hall - with the sarcophagus of Alexander Nevsky.

This summarizes 3 hours in this amazing place. Our guide estimates we may have seen maybe 1 or 2 percent of what's on display and what's on display is only 10 percent of the total collection!!!!

Now… it’s off to the Hydrofoil on the Neva River which takes us to Peterhof.

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